Monday, 12 January 2015

Sunday Riley Luna - World Exclusive


What is it?
'Next generation retinoid oil reduces pore size, improves appearance of damaged skin, and helps fight wrinkles.' 

Aka a nighttime vitamin A treatment oil.

Who is it for?
Anyone looking to address the visible signs of ageing.

What's in it?
Persea Gratissima (Extra Virgin, Cold Pressed Avocado) Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Organic, Cold Pressed Concord Grape) Seed Oil, Rubus Fruticosus (Cold Pressed Blackberry) Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica (Cold Pressed Chia) Oil, Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Chamomila Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Oil, Tanacetum annuum (Blue Tansy) oil, Anthemis nobilis (English Chamomile) oil, Eriocephalus punctualatus (Cape Chamomile) oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Neroli) Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Blood Orange) oil, Cananga Odorata Flower (Ylang Ylang) Oil, Vetivera zizanoides (Vetiver) oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, CI 61565 (Green 6), CI 60725 (Violet 2).

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?
Dimethyl Isosorbide - a solvent
Essential oils - 7 of them. 8 if you include the Blue Tansy, of which the allergen content has not been listed on the packaging as per EU regulations)
Dyes - I 61565 (Green 6), CI 60725 (Violet 2)

Natural? Organic? Man-made? Vegan?
Man-made. Despite the preferred PR story, this product should not claim to be 'natural', even more so, 'organic'. 
Dimethyl Isosorbide is a synthetic solvent. It works brilliantly as a solvent, but it's not organic. And CI 61565 (Green 6), CI 60725 (Violet 2) are synthetic colours.

Tested on animals/sold in China?
No/No

What's not in it?
Water
Parabens
Mineral oil

How do you use it?
Apply a couple of drops in the evening after cleansing and toning and massage in.

What’s good about it?
For people looking to get into a vitamin A product this is a good place to start. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is the trans-retinol ester of all retinoic acid. A cousin, if you will, as opposed to a sibling. It can be used at higher %s without causing significant irritation. The large amount of carrier oils make it a gentler option than some over the counter retinoids. 
Vitamin A is the best anti-ageing ingredient on the market, proven and accepted by the FDA. For more info on vitamin A you can read this cheat sheet. Blue Tansy Oil is a welcome addition and is soothing and calming, with known anti-inflammatory properties.

What’s not so good about it?
Although the Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is undoubtedly a great anti-ageing ingredient, this contains a large amount of carrier oils that whilst being suitably calming, are also among the most inexpensive of the plant oils available. Expense has been spared along the line, despite the high price tag.
Luna also contains seven - 7 - essential oils. Considering this is a product designed by its very nature to cause irritation to the skin, including that many essential oils in the formula is ill-advised. Paula Begoun will have a coronary. 
Clearly the numerous previous complaints about the smell of Juno and Artemis have been taken to heart - maybe to an extreme? 
And although the 'Blue Tansy Oil' is a great name, the blue colouring is synthetic, not floral.

Similar products?
SkinCeuticals Retinols in 0.3/0.5/1%
Paula's Choice 1% Retinol
Both fragrance free and in tube dispensers.

Exchange rate – does it punish the UK?
Inevitably. It's $105.00 (about £65.00 equivalent) and £85.00 in the UK, so yes.

Available from Sephora.com and CultBeauty.com





119 comments:

  1. Hi Caroline - how would you recommend using this in conjunction with P50? TIA!

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    Replies
    1. Reading this, I had the very same question!

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    3. P50 is a toner - this goes on afterwards..

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    4. Thank you so much Caroline for answer this question- I just got a bottle of P50 after reading so much about it and was confused whether to use Luna afterwards - cause it saids on the bottle to avoid other AHA and retinol products. I guess Luna works different from other over the counter retinols !

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    5. Caroline I have the same question though. Being using 0p50 1970 original formula, will Luna oil be ok after or not as label said not to use other Aha's after. Please advise

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  2. Caroline you just made me happy to have been forced to move back to the states. Finally a bright side! (Well it isn't really all bad..just weird)

    xo

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    Replies
    1. Caroline
      I can't seem to find this anywhere. I live in Canada and thought of ordering online.

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    2. It's on sephoras website. I just bought it.

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  3. Hi Caroline-
    I love Sunday Riley products and this is an exciting launch! Can Luna be used in conjunction with Good Genes?

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  4. How would this do on skin with hormonal breakouts around the chin and jawline?

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    Replies
    1. I, also, would like to know this! That is my big skin struggle. Also, where in your PM routine would you put this?

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    2. Well.

      And:

      Straight on to a cleansed face after toning.

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  5. Would you post the full ingredient list or is that not allowed pre launch? Thanks! xo

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    Replies
    1. It doesn't photograph well I'm afraid but I'll have a go for the launch :)

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  6. Blue Tansy is the same as in Blue Cocoon, isn't it? I wonder if Luna is blue! May I ask, which would you rec for inflamed sensitive skin with hormonal acne (still!) Already have Artemis. Thank you!

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    Replies
    1. inflamed sensitivity, Blue Cocoon
      Hormonal acne, Luna
      Sorry! :)

      Delete
  7. Since starting to read your blog, I've been umming and ahhing (technical thought process description there ...) about which Sunday Riley oil to get. I think this may just be the one. I have no particular skin issues (apart from v. mild occasional perioral dermatitis) but I want to make sure I stave off first signs of ageing and the first few lines that seem to be appearing no matter how much I don't want them to (how dare they?!). Now to wait for it to arrive!

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  8. Can't wait to get this on my face!

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  9. ah your blog is killing my bank account hah!! love it though

    This Girl Loves Chic

    Twitter

    Facebook

    xx

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  10. You say not to use during pregnancy but can it be used whilst breastfeeding?? Thanks!

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  11. I have been using oils for ages, but this looks super interesting.

    So yes, another application question - would it be cleanse/tone/Luna/alltherest? (I *think* this would be correct, but am not sure)? Or cleanse/tone/alltherest/Luna/moisturizer?

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    Replies
    1. cleanse/tone/luna/alltherest/but I would only really use a mosituriser on top personally

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    2. Oh Lord,
      Caroline what do you mean all the rest? I thought cleanse, mild acid tone, Luna and then moisturise. Luna is a night treatment so would moisturise be necessary. Anyway please save me from a migraine and explain 'all the rest'!!
      I'd really appreciate it!! Ta very much x

      Delete
  12. Tansy is an interesting plant. I'm going to put this on my list.

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  13. Hi Caroline
    I have been following your blog the last few months and have been using alot of the products that you recommend. However,over the past year I have developed white lumps/bumps under my skin on my chin and jaw line and cannot get rid of them. I am in my thirties and my skin can be quite dry but oily at the same time. Can you recommend any products that would get rid of this problem? Please help!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I developed this too, I've stopped doing any facial massage for awhile and using oils helped in my case. I simplified my routine and stopped using anything that might irritate. I use the MooGoo oils, particularly the vitamin c serum which contains olive oil and I find really soothing and nourishing, after beginning using this the bumps went quite quickly which I also had around the sides of my forehead. I just thought I would comment as I had the same thing, hope it gets better soon :)

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    2. Thank you for your post. I will try anything to get rid of them. I will give the Moogoo a go.

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    3. I have also developed this...I can't figure out what's causing it as I follow the routines and product recommendations. Please help...I have some on my cheeks too

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    4. I've been developing the same bumps under the skin along my jawline. No exfoliater ( acid or otherwise) will get rid of it. My only difference is I'm only seventeen - everyone else in my family has near perfect skin (even my mother who never washes her face, she looks thirty when she is really fifty-something) yet I have horrible acne which started when I was barley twelve! I though I was taking good care of my skin - not using foam cleanser, acid exfoliating with Dr.Gross peels, using a good moisturizer, knowing when to use certain products depending on how my skin is that day. But now I feel like the skin gods have cursed me with troubled skin I wish I knew what I could do to help my skin!

      Delete
    5. She has a post regarding milia from a while back, maybe take a peek and see if it sounds familiar?
      I started developing those white bumps as well, and they were driving me crazy! nothing would make them go away! But then, I realized that my skin reacts to silicone polymers and as soon as I stopped using products with silicones in them, they stopped popping up. They do take a while to shift out though, but regular acid exfoliation has helped me a lot.

      Delete
  14. Would this be a replacement for Skinceuticals 1.0 or Tazorac?

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  15. Hi Caroline, my silk pillowcase arrived today and I must say the thought of silk makes me shudder but this feels so lovely!! Really looking forward to trying it out tonight so thank you because if it wasn't for your blog post I would never have tried one EVER!! I have rosacea and acne on my cheeks so a lot of redness going on do you think the Charlotte tilbury blush would be suitable or just make me look like I have slap cheek? Thanks! X

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    Replies
    1. I think the pillowcase will help your cheeks and yes Tilbury blush will be fine x

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  16. Caroline you are on fire just now! New posts every day, as sad as it probably sounds this makes me extremely happy!

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  17. The Sunday Rileys oils are just everything, so a new addition makes me fizz! <3

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  18. Could you use this in conjunction with a rx retinol (2.5%)?? (Sorry if this is a double post, technical difficulties on my end, technology continues to be my enemy!!)

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    Replies
    1. No I think it would be too much xx

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    2. What if the RX retinol were not as strong? I recently started using an rx, but this oil sounds lovely too.

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  19. Have you ever tried Alpha h vitamin A serum? Do you have any opinion on this serum?

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  20. I'd love to try this! x
    http://my--socalledlife.blogspot.com.es/

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  21. Hi Caroline,
    I have been using Retin-A cream 0,025% 2-3 nights a week for breakouts prevention and to achieve glowing skin, not to treat breakouts because I currently don't have any (THANK GOD) and I have seen positive results in my skin (clearer, more even toned and radiant, no flakiness whatsoever), the question are:

    1) Do I still need this Luna Oil?
    2) What makes it different/better than the prescribed retinoic acid like Retin-A other than the ones you stated above?

    Thank you, really hoping you to answer this since I need to decide soon if I should start saving to buy this oil or not :p

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Are you getting it on prescription? PreX would be stronger - well, they should be!

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  22. Caroline, do you know what the cost will be at Sephora?

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    Replies
    1. I don't know the US prices but this will be the same or less than Juno et al

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  23. For what age groups would this oil be suitable?

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  24. I hope it's essential oil free so I can give it a go.

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  25. Hi Caroline,

    Who is this good for?

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  26. Hi Caroline, first off i love you, you have changed my life literally you are a SKINCARE GODESS * heavens open up above* :) love all your posts, do you recommend this for a 20 yr old like myself or older skin ? or if you have the money spend it ?

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    Replies
    1. You don't need it.

      Yours,

      Skincare Goddess ;)

      Delete
  27. OMG! can't wait to try! got a light oil obsession past few months...

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  28. Loving Juno but I want to try this! Application order would be helpful! Thanks from cold Indiana!

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  29. Sounds incredible, seriously excited to try my Sunday Riley products tonight!

    Nic x

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  30. Wow! Can this be used in conjunction with Liquid Gold- on the alternate nights, not together obvs.

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  31. It sounds amazing! Can't wait to find out when it comes to the uk!

    www.peonyandpeach.blogspot.com

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  32. This would be a (stronger?) alternative to the good genes treatment, right? As opposed to an alternative to their other (more moisturizing) oils, e.g. Artemis or even something like Clarins blue lotus.

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    Replies
    1. Yes, this is retinols, the other oils are nourishing/softening.

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  33. This sounds really nice. I'm currently using an oil with a retinol in it as well. It's been very helpful and surprisingly effective for just about every type of skin woe I have! I will certainly keep this one in mind when I run out of my other one!

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  34. I looked at the Blue Cocoon cream after watching your best of 2014; I noticed that blue tansy is in there as well. I think the oil might suit me better than a cream - hope it's out soon!

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    Replies
    1. They do two very different things though...

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  35. Omg price please

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  36. I was all excited for five minutes and then the Blue Tansy oil got explained. Sadly, I am allergic to azulene. :-(

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    1. I just noticed that Blue Tansy is an essential oil, which means Luna will be a no no for me. Sadness.

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    2. Oh that's annoying isn't it? My skin loves it. :(

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  37. Hurray hurray, I'm singing as l type...in a Julie Andrews voice!!!

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  38. But for how long have you been using this? I always wonder how you know so fast about the 'effects' of products if you only show us a corporate picture and not the product itself that you have ... It's an observation I made over time reading your blog. In your videos you seem to show us 'untouched' products too.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. About 3 weeks. What do you mean a 'corporate' picture? I too the above picture. I literally never blog about something I haven't tried - and if I do - I state it clearly.
      And I know so fast because that's my job. It's what I do.

      Delete
  39. Hi, I am already using Differin nightly, so would an extra product with retinoids be of any additional benefit? Or would you recommend using AHA (I have the Ole Henriksen night invigorating gel) in the morning instead. I'm wondering if that is exfoliation overkill for the skin?
    Thanks!!

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    Replies
    1. if you're using Differin you don;t need anything else. Don't go crazy love :)

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  40. Oh, Caroline. Now I'm dying to make a joke about Mike Patton being on my face... ;)

    This stuff sounds great. x

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    Replies
    1. We've all been there.

      The joke I mean, not the reality... :)

      Delete
  41. "Luna is mixed as gently as possible to keep the risk of oxidization to a minimum." --> What guarantees this during shipment? Is the bottle housed in shock-absorber of some kind?

    I presume the packaging is not air-tight to start with (it looks like it is housed in dropper bottle), even with small head space inside the bottle, oxygen still exist and it does not take a lot of oxygen to start the oxidation. In essence how much of active products we know still exist in the bottle by the time we use it? Also how long after we open it that the product will stay effective?

    Thanks for any clue on this.

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    Replies
    1. Yes, exactly!! I asked myself the same questions! I'm sure Caroline won't and can't answer! -.-

      Delete
    2. Hi Claire,

      Well obviously I can't give you direct numbers or %'s because I'm not privvy to that info.
      All I can say from the packaging is that the vitamin a content is listed WITH the delivery system which means it's encapsulated. So it's already been 'layered' if you like, with protection.
      As for the transportation, it comes in a solid box with a built-in cushioned platform to minimise jolting. Again - who knows re delivery from the brand to the store, but I doubt it's carried like a ticking bomb. :)
      All products have to undergo compatibility and stability testing to be sold commercially, again - I'm not privvy to that info, but it would have passed or the lab wouldn't have proceeded.
      Most products are sold with a 2 yr 'use by' but with oils I tend to say a year - but that's just my preference.
      What I CAN tell you is my opinion, which is that this is one of, if not the, most potent vitamin a over the counter product I've used. Hope it helps....

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    3. And Anon,

      Why wouldn't I answer?

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    4. If I accidentally left the top unscrewed overnight do you think I ruined it?

      Delete
  42. To be honest, the only reason i'm commenting is because there's another blogger out there that loves Mike Patton. The new single makes me want to explode. HE'S NEVER GOING TO STOP BEING SEXY DAMNIT!

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  43. This product looks fantastic but I just got the Perricone Chia Serum at Xmas. Could I layer this with Chis or is that gong to be chip pan face..?

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  44. Can you use this with omorovicza gold night drops + this works no more wrinkles night cream (both say have retinoids) thanks

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  45. Hi Caroline,

    Firstly, thank you so much for all the information you share - it really is invaluable! I'm a total skincare addict but never buy anything without reading your opinion first!

    My question is whether this would be suitable for my skin - I am 23 with good skin everywhere except my chin which becomes easily congested, with occasional sore red spots at the time of the month.

    I am quite used to acids - p50v, p50 1970, liquid gold etc, however have never used a product with retinol.

    I am really keen to purchase one of Sunday Riley's oils & am leaning towards this one.

    I'd be so greatful if you could offer any advice!

    Thank you xx

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  46. Hi Caroline, all 3 of the Sunday riley oils including Juno, Artemis and Luna, which one is the best for anti aging purpose? I'm 31 and prevent fine lines and wrinkles are my priority! thank you! xx

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  47. Oh dear, first off, Love you Mrs. H! Secondly, I received Luna yesterday from Sephora. I could not wait to go to bed so I could try this, followed by a moisturizer...however, 5 minutes after applying, I had to wash it off! I could not tolerate the smell, can you believe it? (insert sad face here) Sadly it must go back to Sephora :( I must be the only person in the world that did not like the scent. If anyone knows of a way to cover the smell please tell me! I so wanted this to work. Sincerely, from Connecticut, Valerie

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  48. Hi, I just got my Luna oil in the mail yesterday and you were so right, I saw results immediately; this morning I was like: WOW! my skin was glowing; I can't wait to see the cumulative results!
    I have a question for you: Can I use it in conjunction with the Estee Lauder Diamond serum? after 10 minutes, I am guessing? Do you use them both the same night? or alternating nights? Thanks! see you Tomorrow in your channel! :)

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  49. Sorry I know you get so many questions.
    Would the body shops bouncy sleep masque be ok on top? Thanks :)

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  50. I have large pores that get easily congested with blemishes and dry skin too do -I'm scared to try an oil would Luna be a good choice?

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    Replies
    1. Yes- I have similar sounding skin and am trying to decide between this or Artemis (or an alternative recommendation?!) It's a big chunk of my budget, so want to make sure I pick the best thing!

      Delete
  51. For night treatments would you recommend this over Estee Lauder's Advanced Night Repair, or could they be used together?

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  52. For night treatments would you recommend this over Estee Lauder's Advanced Night Treatment or do they cover different bases?

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  53. Hi Caroline: can this oil be used along with Dr Colberts illumino oil on my 40+dry skin 😊 or can they be alternated or not? Thanks.

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  54. Hi Caroline
    Do you know when Luna is launching in Europe? I've been trying to get a hold on it but can't find it anywhere expect from sephora in the states and, unfortunately, they don't ship to Sweden. I find it quite strange that I can't even find it on Sunday Riley's homepage, or maybe I wasn't looking hard enough?

    I was also wondering if it's ok to use Luna on top of Good Genes if I have dry skin with hormonal breakout

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  55. Just for Aussie readers - We're finally getting Luna on 25th May :D :D :D

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  56. I have a healthy diet and lifestyle, but i still get small pustules on the apples of my cheeks. I use clinique ttdo balm, FAB facial radiance pads, and good quality omega 3s. Do you think luna would help?

    ReplyDelete
  57. I've been using Luna for about 2 weeks now and it seems as if my blackheads are more visible. The pores are shrinking, but it's almost as if the color of the oil is making them look, should I say, blacker? Will this go away with continued use or am I just not a candidate for using?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Im having cystic acne along my jawline. Test of the skin is good. So not sure maybe some of the ingredients doesnt suit me. Good genes works well for me though

      Delete
  58. My understanding is that Luna must be applied to dry skin. If my moisturizer is applied after Luna, doesn't this go against the whole "moisturizer must be applied on moist skin to lock in mousture"...?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Pretty sure moisturiser on moist skin is a myth. Dry skin is better. Damp skin isn't going to matter too much

      Delete
  59. Dearest Caroline Hirons - Thank you for your reviews––and sense of humor. Luv it!

    I'm late to the Sunday Riley party but this review hits on some very important points for me and I'm glad you took the time to spell them out. Your reviews helped me compare this Retinol to say, a Paula's Choice version. It comes down to more than the wildly different price-point btw the two lines. It's also the significant differences in the volume of ingredients used.

    I've been a fan of Paula's largely because she was an early champion of educating yourself about what you slap on your visage. I even read her first beauty bible (that dates me!). But like you, the use of certain ingredients still bugs me, mineral oil in particular.

    Your review of the Sunday Riley's use of a potentially more stable Vit A and lack of silicone and alcohol––yahoo! Sounds like a winner and so I got a sample and tried it last night.

    Fingers crossed, onward with the great skin experiment =)

    ReplyDelete
  60. Love your reviews so very much!

    Question that I'm hoping you can answer! Would this work in conjunction with a 12% glycolic serum? Specifically the Drunk Elephant Glycolic Night Serum? Thank you so much! :)

    http://www.sephora.com/t-l-c-framboos-tm-glycolic-night-serum-P392246

    ReplyDelete
  61. Hi Caroline!

    I have been debating Luna for ages and have a couple of questions before I take the plunge.
    First, you mention above in another comment response to use this product before moisturizer. I have heard/read many other places that the avocado oil in Luna acts as a carrier which will increase effectiveness of any other products applied UNDER it. Total bogus?

    Also, the gentleman in this video mentions some long-term negative affects of ingredients within Luna. What is your take on that?
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=I99DltENZRk

    Thank you for your time!

    ReplyDelete
  62. Hi caroline, im a pharmacist who has dispenses and advises on skincare (prescribed medication) and as this is a retinoidic analogue, i fugure ypu shpuld npt use it your pregnant. there is no information on cilt beauty to indicate this. please could you confirm? some youtuve reviews have specified but i do not see it in your review... thanks, meera xx

    ReplyDelete
  63. Hi Caroline,
    I am considering buying this product, but I am not sure if it could be "too much". I am 28 years old and my skin can be very sensitive. A year ago I had a rather heavy struggle with atopic eczema/neurodermatitis. My face, especially around the cheek and eye area, and my hands have suffered the most. Since then, I changed my diet, because dairy products seem to trigger it, and got rid of any active spots. Now I am left with quiet some skin damage directly from the inflammation and from the cortisone cream that my dermatologist prescribed. Would you recommend using this treatment oil in my case?
    Thank you so much! Your blog has been a great support to me (Thanks to you, I truly love the Emma Hardie cleanser, as does my entire family!

    ReplyDelete
  64. Hey caroline , what do you think of this : http://www.paulaschoice.com/beautypedia-skin-care-reviews/by-brand/sunday-riley/_/Luna-Sleeping-Oil ? xxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That review is pretty much everything Caroline anticipated. Paula hates essential oils and fragrance. Even though she isn't at the helm of Beautypedia anymore (she's just on the PC development side) she has a team of reviewers who generally subscribe to her school of thought. Those reviews do echo her historical positions.

      Delete

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