Wednesday, 11 March 2015

Paula's Choice Clinical 1% Retinol Treatment


What is it?
'Sun damage that won't go away? Wrinkles keeping you up at night? Don't get mad, get powerful.'

or in other words - an overnight retinol anti-ageing treatment.

Who is it for?
'Acne, Anti-Ageing, Breakouts, Brown Spots, Wrinkles'      

Anyone looking for a proven anti-ageing treatment.

What’s in it?
(What isn't in it!?!! --->)
Aqua, Dimethicone (silicone slip agent), Glycerin (skin-repairing ingredient), Butylene Glycol (slip agent/penetration enhancer), Isononyl Isononanoate (emollient), Castor Isostearate Succinate (skin conditioning agent), Glyceryl Stearate (emulsifier), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (thickener), Dimethicone Crosspolymer (silicone thickener/texture enhancer), PEG-33 (binding agent), Polysorbate 20 (emulsifier), Behenyl Alcohol (fatty alcohol thickener), Retinol (cell-communicating ingredient), Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (vitamin C/antioxidant), Ceramide 2 (skin-repairing ingredient), Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (cell-communicating ingredient), Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (cell-communicating ingredient), Sodium Hyaluronate (skin-repairing ingredient), Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (antioxidant plant extract/anti-irritant), Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (antioxidant plant extract/anti-irritant), Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernal Extract (antioxidant plant extract/anti-irritant), Arctium Lappa (Burdock) Root Extract (antioxidant plant extract/anti-irritant), Salix Alba (Willow) Root Extract (antioxidant plant extract/anti-irritant), Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (antioxidants/skin-conditioning agent), Lecithin (cell-communicating ingredient), Allantoin (anti-irritant), Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E/antioxidant), Hydrolized Soy Protein (antioxidant), sorbitan Laurate (emulsifier), Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester (anti-irritant), Disodium EDTA (stabilizer), Hydroxyethylcellulose (thickener), Sodium Hydroxide (pH adjuster), Tribehenin (emollient), Caprylyl Glycol (skin-conditioning agent), Ethylhexylglycerin (skin conditioning agent), Pentylene Glycol (slip agent), PEG-100 Stearate (thickener), PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides (emollient), PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer (film-forming agent), PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol (fatty acid-based thickener), PEG-8 Dimethicone (sillicon-based skin-conditioning agent), PEG-14 (thickener), Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate (binding agent), Polymethylsilsesquioxane (sillicone-based opacyfying agent), Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (slip agent), Arachidyl Glycoside (emulsifier), Sclerotium Gum (thickener), Arachidyl Alcohol (thickener), Benzoic Acid (preservative), Sodium Carbomer (gel based thickener), Phenoxyethanol (preservative).

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?
Silicones (I don't mind silicones at all but I know some of you do)

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?
Man made, vegan as far as I can see.

Tested on animals/sold in China?
No/No

What's not in it?
Fragrance
Mineral oil (odd considering the brand champions it, but also sensible considering this ingredient needs to penetrate and it won't do that if it's in a mineral oil base)
Parabens

How do you use it?
'Apply a pea-sized amount after cleansing and toning, and then follow with your Paula's Choice serum and/or nighttime moisturizer. When first using the Clinical 1% Retinol, start with no more than three evenings per week, then gradually increase frequency to every other night and, finally, every evening as tolerated (measure how your skin responds). Avoid the lips, direct contact with the eye, and corners of the eyes. You may apply up to the orbital bone of the eye area.'

Good, sensible instructions except for the 'follow with PC serum and/or moisturiser'. You could perfectly well follow this with a serum or moisturiser from one of Paula's competition - just try and avoid using one that contains a lot of retinol/vitamin A!

What’s good about it?
This is a good product. If you read the website you'd think it was the second coming of Jesus (can't blame them for that - it IS their brand after all) - but nonetheless, it is indeed a good product. 
It is not, as they claim, the strongest retinol on the market without prescription, brands like Skinceutcals have been doing 1% retinol treatments for years.
This moisturises nicely, gives me no 'burn' or irritated feeling and is fragrance-free, which I know will please a lot of you!
Results for me were good, no peeling or redness at all, but then my skin may be more acclimatised to retinols than yours, so always take heed from the tips on the website.
If you aren't using vitamin A products at the moment, and you are in your 20's or have acne scarring, try this.
If you aren't using vitamin A products at the moment and you are the other side of 30, you need to get with the programme because your face will fall off by the time you're 70. 
Slight exaggeration, but you get my point. Vitamin A takes your face to the gym. It needs the exercise. Embrace it. Even if you do it while lying on the sofa watching Corrie.


What’s not so good about it?
It's not that it's 'not good', but that ingredient list tells you everything you need to know about most US brands. They take a 'throw everything at it and something will work approach' - it's like a buffet in an all-you-can-eat-restaurant. Offer everything, there will be something for everyone. Or in this case, offer everything, something will give results. 
That being said, retinol/proper anti-ageing creams will always be more complicated formulas than most natural ones. Which is fine by me. You get to a certain age, if you really want results, you need to embrace the chemical. Sorry but it's true. I'm all for natural and organic cleansers and moisturisers, but nothing is more anti-ageing than proper clinical vitamin A. You don't get that from bloody rosehips IMO. This retinol actually works.

Where to use in your routine?
After toning, before serum and/or moisturiser.

Similar products? (Similar, not same)
Skinceuticals 1% Retinol
Dennis Gross Ferulic Acid + Retinol Brightening Solution 

Brand Website - very good:
Incidentally, everything I hate about bad websites (too numerous to mention) is the exact opposite of the website for Paula's Choice. It has ingredients, explanations, great product information and good advice. If I was marking websites, hers is hard to beat. Cult Beauty is another one that comes to mind for a retailer, but brand-wise, this is the dog's gonads.

Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment is £51.50 for 30ml and only available online at said website..




76 comments:

  1. Thank you for the review.
    My man is visiting the US and I can choose a present - which Sunday Riley product would you recommend as a starter? Mid-40s, dry skin, some signs of ageing, no acne. Thank you

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    Replies
    1. Good Genes, definitely.

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  2. I bought Skinceuticals1% but I'm a bit worried it's going to be a bit strong for my face, having never tried retinols before. How should I properly wean my skin to avoid the dreading peeking effect?Many thanks Caroline, you're a skin hero :)

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    Replies
    1. First once or twice a week, then every other day and so on. And use good oils and moisturizers :)

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    2. Me too!! Can you still use an acid toner like p50 with it? Is the skinceuticals your nightly serum?

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    3. Click on the "retinol" key word to the right here----> there you have all the info you'll need. Yes - you can use acids. And use both day and night - use spf at day.

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    4. The post is called: Beauty Myth No. 9 - You can't use retinols with AHA's/during the daytime

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  3. What do you think about the resist toner from PC? Good or not worth it? Thanks

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  4. Hi Caroline. I used the Indeed Labs Retinol product and noticed no difference whatsoever - I thought I was doing it wrong! Do you know how much stronger this PC one is in comparison?

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  5. are there any cheaper retinols that people might recommend?

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  6. Can always email the brand with vegan questions

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  7. I'm a huge packaging geek, and this one just scratches all my itches, so to speak. The purple and gold, the clean, cylindrical shape…I don't know. Part of the reason I originally bought it was because I wanted to touch the bottle, LOL.

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  8. I don't think I can PC here in Poland :/ Any chance that you may have tried a French retinol brand that you like? Maybe the LRP Redermic?

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    Replies
    1. PC has a polish website!

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  9. Would this be better than alpha h liquid gold for a 35+ yr old woman with first signs of ageing, oily skin and breakouts? Thanks

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    Replies
    1. They are different sorts of products. Alpha H Liquid Gold is an Acid Toner; it contains no retinol. I'm not Caroline but I think you could use both (first the Liquid Gold and then the Retinol). Check her recommendations on the Liquid Gold because I'm not sure it's a use every day item. Read her beauty myths and you can see that both can be used together.

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    2. Actually, if we're getting technical, Liquid Gold is a glycolic treatment and not an acid toner - it's much stronger than many of the acid toners Carolyn recommends. It's designed to be used on it's own (i.e. without anything over top). I personally wouldn't put ANY retinol over the top of LG, because my skin would flip out. I'd alternate the nights.
      Maybe Carolyn can weigh in on this, but I think, if you can afford it, a combination of the two would do wonders... so LG a couple of times a week and an evening retinol in with your regular night routine for the other evenings. If you can only afford one, I'd personally go with the retinol and buy a more affordable/regular use acid toner.

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    3. It's a treatment, not a toner. You are not supposed to put anything after using liquid gold. Wash your face and slap it on and you are done.

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  10. Oh no I am 47 and never use night cream and have never ever used Retinol please help where the hell do I start. I don't want my face to fall off its already started slipping ...have I left it too late to start using these things ...worried :(

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  11. I started using PC's retinol a few weeks ago, and hope to see some results in my skintone and fine lines.

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  12. Caroline, was about to purchase the Skinceuticals or Ren bio-retinoids. Should I get this instead? Love your blog and videos, Louise P

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  13. Just purchased the La Roche-Posay Redermic (R) after watching your video with the dermatologist. Is it comparable to these mentioned above or are they much stronger? Have changed my routine so much after finding you ;) doing well with the cleansers, acids and serums but lacking in the retinol/vit A department. I do have some mild acne scaring along the sides of face from the teen years, 36 y.o. now with normal/slightly combo skin, fair and a bit sensitive--what's they best way to start???

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    Replies
    1. There is 0.3% retinol in that one - unless it's the "sensitive" one with vit-C added - then there is less. Ruth from A model recommends also had her assistant trial out the LRP Redermic R with great results.

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  14. Looks good, to bad about the silicones

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  15. Observing face falling off sentiment above, the last time I used something with retinol in it (unknowingly admittedly) my face nearabouts fell off after a period resembling a fiery ball visible from outer space (I have dry eczema prone sensitive and dehydrated despite efforts skin) and my skin didn't calm down for over a month.... is this normal?
    That in mind is there any alternative or advice on possible acclimatisation or is my face doomed?!!
    ( thank-you btw for your advice for stressed grieving skin, my skin has returned to normal xx)

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    1. Thanks for the info! Sounds like I have very similar skin to you & was wondering how my sensitive skin would react to a product like this! But I am terrified my skin is going to fall off my face if I don't do something! Haha! Any suggestions???

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    2. Another one with eczema/allergy/dermatitis problems and super sensitive (no diagnosis as yet about to start a food diary!), but I really need retinol or acceptance of the lines (same age bracket as your Ma Caroline), skin has always been really good, but illness has aged me a good few years - sigh.

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    3. Danielle what was Caroline's advice for grieving skin? I need it! Also if anyone has any good tips for sensitive/dry/eczema prone facial skincare I would love to hear them.

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    4. Anonymous- down in the comments of this post http://www.carolinehirons.com/2015/03/beauty-myths-no12-you-have-to-use.html - basically a rich cleansing balm and facial oils brought my skin back from the brink as my skin couldn't tolerate acids for the first few days.

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    5. I also cannot use retinol.. Tried for months on environ and I had the worst acne of my life. However, I do ok with lactic acid, Sunday riley, zelens. Still have scarring but I know I'm allergic to retinol and glycolic. I hope eventually the lactic will get me there.

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    6. Thanks Danielle!

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  16. Paula's Choice saved my skin in my late 20s and early 30s. I still use some of their vit c, ahas,bhas,toners and moisturisers. I have since switched to a prescription retinoic acid, but I really liked her retinol products too. Good value for what you get. They do a lot of things right. Glad you agree!

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  17. I like to go as non toxic as possible...what do you think of their other products? I am in my mid 4o's and hating my laugh lines around my mouth and want something to firm firm firm if that is even possible???

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  18. I've been using this for 2 months. My first ever retinol product, I'm in my thirties, and I love it! It's effective and not irritating. I've had milia for years, nothing worked, and since using this they're GONE.

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  19. She recommends using this product with the Resist Oil Booster to lessen the potential of irritation. Is there another face oil that you can recommend mixing with the retinol treatment?

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  20. Caroline, can a pregnant woman use this? I completely forget what are the retinol type forbiden to pregnants!

    Thank you.

    Best

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  21. I've been hearing great things about Biretix Retinol cream recently. Have you tried it, Caroline?

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  22. I have to ask is the retinol in SR Luna or SK Restorative Oil enough or do we need something like this in the 30's as well?

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  23. I just started using the Sunday Riley Luna Oil and am really having noticeable positive results in the AM. How would this compare? Is this just stronger? I'm turning 45 in a couple weeks ;)

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  24. Hi. Would the Redermic R that Sam recommended be enough for a 29 year old skin with acne scarring in that U zone? I dont tend to get on well with silicones (nasty under the skin spots seem to form) but the Redermic R is only 0.3% retinol so didn't know if it would be enough or a nice way to start using retinol. Thanks for your help!

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  25. Please can you do a post about teenage skincare and what products you would recommend for teenagers..

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  26. Not to add to your workload, but I'd love a cheat sheet on retinols/vitamin A. Are they one and the same? I'm confused and concerned I'm not integrating enough treatments into my routine.

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  27. Is this stronger than Sunday Riley Luna Oil? I just started using that and I love the noticeable results. My first retinoid(al?) product and I am turning 45. Just figured it out. Anyway, should I try it after my Luna is gone or switch it up from time to time?

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  28. Hi Caroline,
    If I'm already using Luna, is that a strong enough retinol treatment for my 40yr old skin? If this PC one is stronger, should I be alternating something like this or Skinceuticals with my Luna oil?

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  29. Is this any good fpr your neck? I am trying to find a gadget or a lotion that will help with the neck my mother passed down to me (wasn't she kind!). If I leave it any longer I am going to resemble Aunt Babe in EE. A bulldog clip at the back of the neck to pull it all tight would be good too. TIA for any help :0) xxxJoolsxxx

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  30. I really wanted to hate this brand because I don't like their Beautypedia page that claims that their products are the best things since slice bread and very harsh to other companies' products. Annoyingly, I love their serums from the Resist line, their 10% AHA body lotion works miracles on my KP, their AHA weekly treatment is wonderful and I am in mad love with their mask for dry skin. I haven't tried their Retinol as my skin doesn't tolerate retinols during the winter and I don't date using retinols during the summer.

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  31. Oh Lordy, now there's something else I've got to be adding to my skincare routine now I'm over 40 - An hour to get ready in the morning soon isn't going to be enough to fit my routine in!!
    Caroline, this Vit A thing is new to me (I knew it could be used for scarring and acne but had no idea I should be using it!) are there other products out there that are comparable to this - any recommendations would be much appreciated

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  32. Sorry, I've just seen the "similar products" section... silly me!!

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  33. Is the 1% retinol serums you can buy from paulas choice etc stronger than the 0.025% Retin A you get on prescription?

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    1. From what I've read, I don't think you can really compare the 2, because Retin-A (a brand name of tretinoin) is Vitamin A and retinol (used in otc products) is a derivative of Vitamin A. So you're trying to compare bagels with sherbet.
      I hope I have that science part right---please correct me if it's not so.
      From my own experience, going back now over 20 years, the otc and Rx versions are light-years apart. It took 2-3 years to build up a tolerance from the lowest dose of Retin-A to the highest, which I use now. My skin became a disaster for a few weeks, and it took 5-6 months to see results, but I tell you, there is nothing even close. And I have tried everything. The thing is that it's obscenely expensive. Frightfully so. But you use a tiny pea-sized amount and it can be stretched out to 9-12 months if you're careful. And the payoff is quite miraculous! From Grace in Brooklyn.

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    2. 1% retinol = 1/20 strength of 1% tretinoin. (roughly; YMMV.)

      This is due to the fact that retinol is not the 'active form' in your skin - tretinoin is, so before it can get its job done, your skin goes through a process of converting the retinol into tretinoin. It does this with a specific enzyme complex that isn't 100% efficient and is rate-limited in the time it takes to do it. So only some of the retinol will get converted effectively to tretinoin. If you're applying a tretinoin cream you get on prescription, on the other hand, your skin doesn't have to take that extra step to convert it, because it's already in the active form. The rate limitation, conversion speed, and pH optimization of the enzyme complex in the skin that converts retinol to tretinoin mean that the a given percent retinol will be about 1/20 as effective as that same percent tretinoin.

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    3. Wow! Thank you! I will stick to my retin a and plough on through any dry days.

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  34. Hi Caroline! I'm 24 and have acne scarring that I'm trying to get rid of. I've been using a mix of DG Alpha Beta Peels, DG Ferulic Acid + Retinol, Sunday Riley Good Genes, and OH Truth Serum to try to speed up the process as much as possible. Only worry is overexfoliation - would love to see a post on this/how often we should be exfoliating each AM/PM!

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  35. I haven't got any PC products yet, although they are absolutely on my radar - with sensitive, reactive, rosacea skin, it is a brand that's been recommended to me. I currently use La Roche-Posay and Indeed Labs for my anti-ageing products, which are agreeing with my skin so I'm reluctant to experiment further for the moment!

    One of the things I like that you might want to add to your post is that the PC website has sample sizes, with enough product for a two-week trial. The 1% Clinical Retinol is only £13.00 for a 5 mL bottle, which I think is a great option for people who really have no idea if it will work for them.

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  36. I've been using the Skinceuticals 1% for a couple of months now, but no more then three times a week. I also discovered that I have to moisturise sooner than they instruct to avoid peeling and irritation, so I only wait about 10 minutes.
    To whoever asked about beginning with Retinols - I did start with the LRP, but built it up gradually.

    I'm also curious, Croline which Retinol % does Luna have, as I'm considering purchasing it in the near future.

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  37. Hey Mrs. Hirons! I'm from Nashville, Tennessee in the United States, and we have a brand here called Therapy Systems. I think you should contact them and get them to send you some goodies! I would really like to know what you think of some of their line. Here's their website: http://www.therapysystems.com/

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  38. How about the VERSO super facial serum which has a retinol complex 8, it is said a concentrated retinol. How is that compared to paula''s choice and the products you said are similar. Thank's a lot. BTW, I love your personality aka humor's.

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    Replies
    1. I have the Verso cleanser, day and night creams with retinol and LOVE LOVE LOVE!!! The eye serum is great too.

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    2. Well, useful information, then how about the super facial serum comparing to the PC? Because I'm about to stock one of them.

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  39. How about the VERSO super facial serum which has a retinol complex 8, it is said a concentrated retinol. How is that compared to paula''s choice and the products you said are similar. Thank's a lot. BTW, I love your personality aka humor's.

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  40. There are rather unknown/newer brands called bio2you and instant natural. Especially the age defense serum by instant natural sounds tempting considering the list of ingredients. I wish you would comment on this product some time - maybe even consider trying it yourself... other than that: thanks for the great informative work!i enjoy it very much!

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  41. I have always had a negative association with Paula's Choice since she basically slags off everything (even Hydraluron!!) and touts her own products as the second coming of Jesus. I'm sure they're good, but I don't want to try them almost on principle haha. I do use her website to research ingredient lists for other products. How would you compare this to Luna? I am nearly through my sample of Luna and already I cannot be without it. It's fab.

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    1. Me too. I did some ingredient research on her site many, many years ago but quit cold when I saw she is pushing her own line, and very hard at that. The conflict of interest issue made me distrust anything she has to say and completely obliterated her brand from my list of products to try.

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  42. Hi Caroline, just wondering what kind of product is better for acne scarring./marks: retinol (like this one) or vitamin c? Thanks!

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  43. Ok, I just started the new CeraVe Retinol Serum. Can I do both?

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  44. I use a lot of Paula's Choice products and I love PC as a brand. Many of their products are very good formulations at relatively affordable prices. Sometimes they do imitate other brands great products (Skinceuticals CE Ferrulic serum vs PC C15) with minor improvement at a fraction of the price. It is win win for my skin and budget.
    That being said, I find Paula irritating as a person and I can see how she can rub many people the wrong way. Still I want to add my two cents to her defense. I see two misunderstandings in Caroline's post and the comments.
    1) PC does not use mineral oil in most of their products. There are only few exceptions: their lipbalm, 2nd ingredient Petrolatum, and their Moisture Boost Cream, a small amount of petrolatum down the ingredient list. Their AHA body lotion used to be mineral oil based, has been reformulated a few years ago. She does not ditch a product because of MO, but does not use it herself.
    2) Paula gives many products outside her brand glowing reviews. I've been reading her reviews for over 10 years (paid for the reviews for over 5 years). Her reviews always made me spend money on other brands products, not hers. She does give a huge body of negative reviews to other brands, always explaining the reason. I don't see why it makes her unfair.
    She is just irritating, doesn't have the charm of Caroline Hirons ;)

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  45. I need to get some Retinol in my routine, haven't done so for far too long.

    LindaLibraLoca: Beauty, Baby and Backpacking

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  46. I love when you review products! There is a product line that I am very curious for a second opinion on. It's based here in the US but ships internationally, it's called Vasseur Skincare. What interests me about this brand is they claim to be the only skincare line in the world that is freshly made for maximum effectiveness. They also say the products are professional strength and highly concentrated, and are toxin, paraben, and chemical preservative free. They have some very interesting products including Mandelic Acid serum, Idebenone cream, ALA, DMAE, ph balanced cleansers, Vitamin C and Green tea serums, amongst others. Basically, they claim to be very natural but also very effective!

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  47. Helle Caroline. What about PETER THOMAS ROTH RETINOL FUSION PM? It claims to have 1,5% RETINOL and also added vitamin C and E...have you tried this one?
    Thanks a lot for all you advise - I stalk this blog/insta/youtube everyday ;)

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    Replies
    1. see comment below - "fwiw i've bought that one three times, i love it! although if you live somewhere warm, KEEP IT IN THE FRIDGE because the last few ml will go off. (still plenty that's worth it tho.)"
      it was meant to get posted as a reply to you!!!

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    2. THANKS! Just opened the bottle this evening. Hopefully I will get along with it well...

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  48. fwiw i've bought that one three times, i love it! although if you live somewhere warm, KEEP IT IN THE FRIDGE because the last few ml will go off. (still plenty that's worth it tho.)

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  49. What do you think about yuli's modern alchemist? It's a natural vit a serum basedon lots of vit a rich oils and extracts. Lara

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  50. Madame Le H....can I use this with EL Advanced Night Repair?? I finally bought the EL serum (on your recommendation...muchos grassyarse) and have been using the Redermic R but it doesn't seem to be doing much. At 48, I think I need to up my game somewhat!!

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  51. Hello from Sweden!
    Ive bern using this ,its my first Retinol treatment,iMovies 30 so its about time(i have very little wrinkles tough)
    My question:ive had it on for my Sixten night in a row(i know,suppose to take it every third night,but thats me),and now my skin is irritated and red.
    I dont care as long as it not dangerous and ecventually in a week or two will go back.
    So i wonder if itsdangeouros thats its red an little irritated plus can i continue using?
    GREATFUL for an answer from Queen of wisdom.
    Best Wishes Sasha

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  52. Hi, I have been using this but have not noticed any changes. I will keep using it but I would alternatively like to try the Skinceuticals 1%. I have checked the UK website and contacted them but they say the 1% is not available here. Are there any other 1% Retinol products anyone can recommend?

    ReplyDelete

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