Tuesday, 9 June 2015

Hylamide SubQ Eyes


What is it?
An eye cream/serum

Who is it for?
Anyone with visible signs of ageing in the eye area that they would like to part company with.

What’s in it?
aqua (water), propanediol, perfluorodecalin, glycerin, perfluorohexane, aminobutyric acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, adipic acid/neopentylglycol crosspolymer, nylon-12 fluorescent brightener 230 salt, albiziajulibrissin bark extract, polyvinyl alcohol crosspolymer, myristoylnonapeptide-3, dipeptidediaminobutyroylbenzylamide diacetate, hydroxyethylacrylate/sodiumacryloyldimethyl tauratecopolymer, fucusvesiculosus extract, vp/vacopolymer, dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer, polyacrylatecrosspolymer-6, epigallocatechin gallatylglucoside, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, isohexadecane, gallyl glucoside, propylgallate, polysorbate 60, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, amodimethicone, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, benzyl alcohol, pentylene glycol, xanthan gum, darutoside, dehydroacetic acid, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol
(Lifted from the website - clearly some spacing between words needed along the way chaps! I fixed what I can.)

Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?
Not that I can see, but have you seen those ingredient names? Who would know outside of a lab? :)

Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?
Man-made

Tested on animals/sold in China?
No/No

What's not in it?
mineral oil
parabens
bismuth oxychloride

How do you use it?
Apply Am and PM after toning


What’s good about it?
Extremely light, immediately hydrating and a little goes a long way. Loaded with peptides, retinol and a ton of other actives, this is an excellent product, the price of which, moves it into the 'must-have' category. Whilst it hasn't miraculously lifted my hound dog eyelids - it's a serum, not a plastic surgeon - it has made a difference to the overall appearance of my eyes - including the dark circles.

What’s not so good about it?
In my last post about a Deciem product, I mentioned how disgruntled I was about the dropper/bottle packaging. Not long after that was posted, I heard from Brandon Truaxe, the founder of Deciem. Brandon wrote me a long email explaining the packaging choice - some of which I am reprinting for you below - with his permission - obvs:

'The biggest formulation nightmare is always the same: your skin likes oil and repels water (contrary to popular belief). Since almost all good technologies are water soluble, for a serum to be truly absorbed into the skin (very different to below the skin in the comparison you made to injections), you need very good delivery mechanisms (and they really really do exist today) and these systems generally yield very thin liquid formulations when in water-only formulations. 

Most premium products (or most products really) offer emulsions of oil and water (creams, emulsion "serums", etc.) to simply offer a thicker, richer formula that "feels" more effective and lovely but, as importantly, opens the door to any type of packaging you wish to have but this viscosity adjustment does nothing other than impede absorption of water technologies in any formula. It's simple: If you feel something on your skin, less got in. 

When you avoid such systems, you're left with highly liquid formulas. With such low viscosities, airless pumps are definitely the wrong choice as the pressure causes a harsh spurt to come out and splash in your hand. Regular air (pump) systems have the same problem to a lesser extent. The other alternative is truly very narrow nozzle tubes which waste about 15% of the product that cannot get out at the end. Please believe me. We were not being cheap. Those simple glass bottles and droppers with a label cost about 50% more than the most sophisticated airless bottles. I am sure there will be a solution soon in the world. It's just not obvious today. 

As a result of this position, our most complex formulations in Hylamide, NIOD and WhiteRx are in dropper systems. We really were not trying to look apothecary or cheap. The alternatives were simply more problematic and I didn't want to sacrifice the formula.'

So that's me told. :) Although it's worth mentioning that my favourite Zelens serums are extremely 'high liquid' serums - they feel almost like water - and they are in a pump that works without splashing. Still, I have huge respect for someone that goes to such lengths to explain their reasoning without being defensive or aggressive. Thanks Brandon.

Similar products?
For this much active ingredient busyness and this good a price point? No, frankly. Eye creams have long been more expensive than their 'face' counterparts, annoyingly so in a lot of cases. This goes some way to bringing them back into the real world.

Exchange rate – does it punish the UK?
No. Deciem products are based in Canada but generally launched in the UK as the lead market and so priced accordingly. 

The Hylamide SubQ Eyes is £27.00 and available from Hylamide.com and Boots.

Deciem - the parent company that is also responsible for my favourite Grow Gorgeous hair products - are doing things differently and stirring up the way beauty is sold, talked about and ranged. It's so worth checking out their website here: deciem.com



43 comments:

  1. I've been using this and the SubQ Anti Age serum and I'm really pleased with both of them. I'm also really excited and grateful that there is great quality skincare out there that I can afford.

    Dear Caroline, please trial and review NIOD next! Just getting my order in!! :-) Thank you for being you and for your wonderful blog that I am addicted to xxx

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  2. Wow, what a fab response from Brandon Truaxe. Really well put.

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  3. Thanks for this review. Now I'm off to see about finding out if they ship to Australia :-)
    The Beauty Bloss

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    Replies
    1. You've probably noticed already as I'm only reading this 7 months later but they stock this brand in Priceline now :)

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  4. Thank you for including Brandon Truaxe's letter. Very informative.

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  5. Just looked at the Decim website and it's $35 and free shipping in the U.S.

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    1. I spent time on their website and saw that Hylamide will be available at CVS in July!

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    2. Yeah! Thanks for the intel!

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  6. So this can be applied to the eyelid?

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    Replies
    1. All around the eye - upper and lower. Enjoy the retinol tingle!

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    2. Great it will replay my Perricone! Thanks Caroline.

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  7. Another review about 1 of the products on Deciem that Im intersted in. Thank u so much Caroline :) They have so many great products (or at least that's how they sound) & make me wanna buy all of them. I did once ask u in the comments section in another post, that what u thought about some other Deciem's products like Retin-oil for body, Hyaluronic concentrate for hands & body, their hair serum & specially their Multi-molecular hyaluronic complex. Would you recommend them?

    thank you!

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    Replies
    1. and a last question. can i use Dr Dennis Gross retinol eye cream after applying this serum or it will be too much? in that case should i use another eye cream over this serum or just straight to moisturizer step?

      thanks!

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  8. I love a dropper, I like the packaging and that I can tilt the bottle and get it all out. Plus I love anything in little bottles :)

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  9. Oh my gosh Caroline, you have literally the power to make me buy stuff (read very good products) within minutes!
    This morning I bought Hylamide SubQ eyes and SubQ anti-age (that you reviewed as well, obvs) just after I have red this post.
    AND... you scared me as F about how the smoking causes wrinkles that I quitted. I swear. I quitted smoking just because of you. Big Deal.

    Thank you darling <3

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  10. That was an in-depth eMail, how lovely he took time out of his day to explain and defend his choice.

    LindaLibraLoca: Beauty, Baby and Backpacking

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  11. Hi Caroline,
    I was looking for some eye cream today..I have looked at Dr.Perricone cold plasma eye cream,Dr Dennis Gross retinol eye cream..ans now this one..I am 48 years old and need one that does not dry my eyes and good under eye make up..which one would you choose please?

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  12. Caroline, would old lady skin need an eye cream after this like Eyesilix? And is it more effective than Eyesilix? Thank you!!

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  13. How does this compare formula-wise to Dr. DG retinol & ferulic? This is less than half the price so I'm excited.

    And I just clued in - Brandon Truaxe used to be with Indeed Labs. I'm trying this for sure! (And yay Toronto based beauty products!)

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  14. Hi Caroline, I love this eye cream. It's the only thing that has made a difference in the skin around my eyes. I also find that it really absorbs quickly and plays well with makeup.
    Finally, so glad to have you back. <3

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  15. Wonderful thorough review.Thanks, Caroline!
    I already have their facial serum, though I haven't used it yet as I'm trying out a biggish sample of Good Genes (am I the only person on the planet who is not impressed by this?).
    This sounds lovely and it's wonderful that there are such good products at this kind of price point!

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    1. I wasn't impressed with Good Genes either. Didn't seem to do much. Plus I found it hard to get past the lemon Pledge furniture polish smell...

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  16. Hi, Caroline! I am currently using Dr Dennis Gross ferulic acid and retinol eye cream (after your recommendation). I am 50 years young. Shall I insist with Dr. Dennis or change to this One? Or this one under Dr Dennis? Txs!!!

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  17. Yipeee!!!!! So glad you've done a review of this eye cream. (perfecting timing too!) Thank you :) xx

    * sprints off to Boots *

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  18. Hi Caroline!! Just wondering if this was as effective (or closely related) to the Jane Scrivener eye cream? x

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  19. Great timing. I'm almost out of the tatcha travel size eye cream and was considering buying another travel size because the full size is sooooo expensive. So hey! Why not try this one. And after the explanation given about the dropper I'm on board. Let's do this. I just ordered it. CAROLINE: CAN I LAYER OVERTOP START OVER IN THE A.M.??

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  20. I thought of getting this on my recent trip to London - so sad I'm missing Carolin at Pixi! - but since I'm using Japanese serums with the same hyularonic acid, this time, I decided to skip.

    That said, I'm really impressed with this man's dedication to using the correct formula: substance over packaging!

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  21. That's so funny caroline I had spotted this brand it boots and thought the ingredients looked good. But I didn't recognise the brand, now I know it's caroline approved!

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  22. I was looking for a good eye serum since March. It's Canadian and CH stamp on it so why not to order it! I'll receive it along with Grow Gorgeous Cleansing Conditioner in a few days! Can't wait try them!!! ♪( ´▽`)

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  23. Thank you for info, Caroline!
    Went and ordered this and a serum for sensetive skin which I sadly have. Will see.

    Do you have any thoughts on hydraluron by Indeed lab?

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    Replies
    1. Thanks. I dind't know the blog has a search bar, I found it already)

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  24. Looks amazing! Just wondering if this is safe for when you are breastfeeding? I'm never quite sure which retinol products are ok. Thanks for another fantastic review!

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  25. Do you prefer this eye serum to the the dennis gross eye cream or can they be used at the same time?

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  26. Do you prefer this eye serum to the Dennis Gross eye cream or can they be used at the same time?

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  27. Spent my boots points on this yesterday, it's already made a massive difference to my flakey, sore stress eczema eyelids- no flakes by morning! Plus my eyelids FEEL plump and moisturised for the first time in forever. This stuff is amazing.
    Thanks for the nod of approval, I would've been hesitant otherwise.

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  28. Hi Caroline...sorry to bother you. Could you possible do a cheat sheet/post about products to relieve eczema on the face especially around the eyes. I now have dennie-morgan lines from stress eczema round the eyes and struggling to ease the soreness! thank you so much!!xxx

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  29. I wanted to love this so much - but it made my eyes sting so bad! Is it just me? Perhaps I can't take the retinol or I'm allergic to something else in it...I'm just about ok with the face serum though.

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  30. Fiver off in boots at the moment. So I got this, obvs. Can't wait to try it...

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  31. I've been testing this since you first wrote about it, Caroline. I finally had to give up on it. It burned like crazy and, although I have used other retinols, my skin never adjusted to this one. It's a shame because I really wanted to like it, but in the end I had to let it go. Oh, well. Onward!

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  32. Just like the comment from Unknown above, it burns like crazy on my eyes :( I used it 4-5 times and now I have little bumps all around the eye :( Have anyone else experienced this? I really don't know what to do and how to treat them...

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  33. Me too. I find it stings like hell and I'm not sensitive and have never had a problem with anything else. I find it too painful to use.

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