What is it?
‘Next generation retinoid oil reduces pore size, improves appearance of damaged skin, and helps fight wrinkles.’
Aka a nighttime vitamin A treatment oil.
Who is it for?
Anyone looking to address the visible signs of ageing.
What’s in it?
Persea Gratissima (Extra Virgin, Cold Pressed Avocado) Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Organic, Cold Pressed Concord Grape) Seed Oil, Rubus Fruticosus (Cold Pressed Blackberry) Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica (Cold Pressed Chia) Oil, Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Chamomila Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Oil, Tanacetum annuum (Blue Tansy) oil, Anthemis nobilis (English Chamomile) oil, Eriocephalus punctualatus (Cape Chamomile) oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Neroli) Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Blood Orange) oil, Cananga Odorata Flower (Ylang Ylang) Oil, Vetivera zizanoides (Vetiver) oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, CI 61565 (Green 6), CI 60725 (Violet 2).
Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?
Dimethyl Isosorbide – a solvent
Essential oils – 7 of them. 8 if you include the Blue Tansy, of which the allergen content has not been listed on the packaging as per EU regulations)
Dyes – I 61565 (Green 6), CI 60725 (Violet 2)
Natural? Organic? Man-made? Vegan?
Man-made. Despite the preferred PR story, this product should not claim to be ‘natural’, even more so, ‘organic’.
Dimethyl Isosorbide is a synthetic solvent. It works brilliantly as a solvent, but it’s not organic. And CI 61565 (Green 6), CI 60725 (Violet 2) are synthetic colours.
Tested on animals/sold in China?
What’s not in it?
How do you use it?
Apply a couple of drops in the evening after cleansing and toning and massage in.
What’s good about it?
For people looking to get into a vitamin A product this is a good place to start. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is the trans-retinol ester of all retinoic acid. A cousin, if you will, as opposed to a sibling. It can be used at higher %s without causing significant irritation. The large amount of carrier oils make it a gentler option than some over the counter retinoids.
Vitamin A is the best anti-ageing ingredient on the market, proven and accepted by the FDA. For more info on vitamin A you can read this cheat sheet. Blue Tansy Oil is a welcome addition and is soothing and calming, with known anti-inflammatory properties.
What’s not so good about it?
Although the Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is undoubtedly a great anti-ageing ingredient, this contains a large amount of carrier oils that whilst being suitably calming, are also among the most inexpensive of the plant oils available. Expense has been spared along the line, despite the high price tag.
Luna also contains seven – 7 – essential oils. Considering this is a product designed by its very nature to cause irritation to the skin, including that many essential oils in the formula is ill-advised. Paula Begoun will have a coronary.
Clearly the numerous previous complaints about the smell of Juno and Artemis have been taken to heart – maybe to an extreme?
And although the ‘Blue Tansy Oil’ is a great name, the blue colouring is synthetic, not floral.
SkinCeuticals Retinols in 0.3/0.5/1%
Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol
Both fragrance free and in tube dispensers.
Exchange rate – does it punish the UK?
Inevitably. It’s $105.00 (about £65.00 equivalent) and £85.00 in the UK, so yes.