Describe the brand in three words.
American. Derm. Green (colour of packaging!).
Who is it for?
On paper, acne sufferers and people wanting anti-aging.
What’s in it?
Water (Aqua), Glycolic Acid, Ammonium Hydroxide, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Polysorbate-20, Phospholipids, Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C), Ubiquinone (COQ10), Disodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, Menthol, Acetone, Imidazolidinyl Urea
What are the key acids?
What % are they?
N/A at this time. Will be added.
What skins are they best for?
How strong do they feel on the skin?
Strong, but that’s more to do with the other ingredients than the acid content.
What’s not in it?
Possibly acne/allergy/troubling for some ingredients?
ammonia, menthol, acetone
Suitable for pregnancy?
Natural? Organic? Man made? Vegan?
Tested on animals in home country/EU/sold in territories that require testing?
How does it smell?
How do you use it?
As always, after cleansing and before serums. Although this in particular says if you have sensitive skin to start a couple of times a week and build up to twice a day.
I would politely suggest that if you have sensitive skin you shouldn’t put this anywhere near your face. Ever. Never mind twice a day.
Can it be taken around the eyes?
Best for winter or summer?
Makes no difference. There really isn’t a good time.
How long did I test it for?
Once. So that I could say I had.
How much is it? /Size/Approximate cost per usage?
$60 for 60 pads. $1 per usage.
What’s the website like?
Fine. Lists information and ingredients.
How’s the distribution? Available freely or limited?
High end distribution. Sephora in US, SpaceNK in the UK.
What’s good about it?
It contains vitamin c and e and CoQ10. and I like the green colour of the packaging.
What’s not so good about it?
I don’t know where to begin with this one. I love me an acid. This we know. I mean I really love acids. This however is just not conducive to the term ‘skincare‘.
The ‘pharmaceutical grade’ glycolic acid is a fallacy. Pharmaceutical grade bears no meaning in reality. It’s a marketing term. Then we have ammonium hydroxide. US brands do like ammonia as a buffer. I prefer a bit of vinegar/witch hazel but they think their customers won’t be happy with the smell. Considered toxic past 6% in the EU, this is listed immediately after the glycolic at 10%, so I would hope it’s not between 6 and 9.9%. Then witch hazel, problematic for some, ok for me personally, regardless, it’s the least of your worries in this.
The inclusion of retinyl palmitate is fine although it’s the vitamin a that’s the least likely to penetrate, and the cheapest. Further along the list you find menthol – added purely for the ‘cooling’ feel on the skin, it has no other purpose – and acetone. Acetone. Although the brand say that they use acetone nf, and that it’s not ‘really’ acetone, the fact remains that acetone will, by its very nature, deplete your skin of it’s natural lipids, something already compromised in people with acne, and the very skin type this entire range is aimed towards.
In professional treatments we use pre-peel ‘de-greasers’ that are almost pure acetone and alcohol, but this is done only in clinic, and only pre-professional treatments, and probably once every quarter at the most. Even at less than 1%, to include it in an at-home product, in a cocktail along with ammonia, menthol and witch hazel and to say that it’s safe for sensitive skin seems like madness to me.
Would I purchase/repurchase?
Do you need it?
Cane + Austin Retexturizing Treatment Pads 10% Glycolic are $60.00. I’m not linking to them.