The Vitamin C Ingredient Changing the Skincare Game

What is ascorbic acid? 

Ascorbic acid is the chemical name for pure vitamin C. It is the most well-researched and potent form of vitamin C, however, it’s also notoriously the most unstable. This water-soluble form of vitamin C usually has to be packaged in airtight, opaque bottles as it is sensitive to light and air. It also needs to be formulated at a more acidic pH (of 4 or lower), which can be irritating to the skin (the pH of our skin is 4.7). 

So, whilst ascorbic acid might be the purest form of vitamin C, it is very difficult to formulate with and use effectively, which is why other more stable forms of vitamin C are on the rise. 

paragraph: Ascorbic acid is the chemical name for pure vitamin C. It is the most well-researched and potent form of vitamin C, however, it’s also notoriously the most unstable. This water-soluble form of vitamin C usually has to be packaged in airtight, opaque bottles as it is sensitive to light and air. It also needs to be formulated at a more acidic pH (of 4 or lower), which can be irritating to the skin (the pH of our skin is 4.7). 

So, whilst ascorbic acid might be the purest form of vitamin C, it is very difficult to formulate with and use effectively, which is why other more stable forms of vitamin C are on the rise. 

Introducing THDA 

Tetrehexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a gentle, oil-soluble and highly stable form of vitamin C. It is a precursor to ascorbic acid, meaning that it is converted to this active form once on the skin. Renowned for its stability and great affinity for skin, which aids penetration, this vitamin C precursor is a powerful antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitor that helps protect the skin's collagen levels, reinforce the skin barrier and prevent hyperpigmentation. 

Benefits of THDA: 

• A gentle form of vitamin C suitable for sensitive skin
• Protects against skin damage and premature ageing by neutralising free radicals, thanks to its brilliant antioxidant abilities
• Helps to fade pigmentation and brighten the skin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for the production of melanin in the skin
• Helps to protect the skin’s collagen reserves and reinforce the skin barrier through its antioxidant power
• Has a great affinity for the skin and can penetrate easily thanks to its lipid-soluble nature

What percentage should I look out for?

In recent years, more and more brands have started bringing out vitamin C products with excessively high percentages of actives. So, do we really need such high concentrations of vitamin C in these products?

We spoke to our in-house Biochemist and NPD Manager, Ashley, about why a higher percentage isn’t always better: 

"In recent years, the skincare industry has placed emphasis on percentages of active ingredients, naturally leading to the presumption that the higher, the better. However, there are some considerations before investing in a vitamin C product. The higher the percentage of an active ingredient like vitamin C, the greater the likelihood of irritation. We also know that the skin can only utilise a certain amount of an active on the skin, before becoming saturated (i.e., actives have a threshold, and once you hit a certain percentage on the skin, the excess will not be utilised) which challenges the necessity for a higher percentage. In addition, comparing percentages with different derivatives doesn’t reveal the true power of the product."

“The Percentage Only Forms a Small Part of the Purchasing Decision”