Sunday, 5 April 2015

Cheat Sheet - How much product should you use?

So yesterday I was quietly minding my own business on Twitter when Stylist tweeted out the picture below, linked to a post, saying 'Thank God, now we know how much to use!'.
I excitedly opened it only to find myself saying out loud 'Erm, no. No. No. Yeah maybe. WHAT? NO.' Etc etc You get my point. The cause of my distress?


Now in absolute fairness to Stylist, which I love, read weekly like a Bible and have absolutely no issue with, this was originally written by makeup.com almost 18 months ago. 
When you look at the actual article they go further with their recommendations, explaining that the cleanser 'hazelnut' size is because 'foam can cover a lot of ground but for cream cleansers you can up your serving size slightly'. It's ok. I was sitting down when I read it. 
There are other crimes, misdemeanours and blatant felonies in the original article, so I figured it was the perfect time write my own Cheat Sheet on 'How much product should you use?'

Cleanser - because we won't be talking about foam, I would break it down by the formula and what are you using the cleanser for - either makeup removing or skin cleansing.

First cleanse/makeup removal - balm: either a big fat grape or two grapes if they're smallish.
First cleanse/makeup removal - milk: a heaped teaspoon or two pumps if applicable
Second cleanse/A.M. cleanse - a level teaspoon or one pump if applicable

Acid toning - dampen a flat cotton pad (never cotton wool balls) until 2/3rd's of the pad are wet. Use both sides. Always. For pre-soaked pads, one pad used on both sides.

Eye cream - I think a 'pine nut per eye' is probably what I use. If your eyes are dry or showing signs of ageing, then you may want slightly more. But for younger skins, one pine nut on the edge of your ring finger, blended with the opposing finger, and applied to the eyes, is sufficient. You need enough to cover the entire orbital area, over and below your eye.

Serums - this is one of the ones that caused me to shout at the page. A pea. A PEA? A pea won't go further than your fingertips. Serums are easy to gauge because the majority of them are in bottle with dispensing pumps, and designed to be dispensed one pump per application. Ergo, if you have a large face, *waves* use two pumps and for a smaller face, use one pump. For comparison purposes, about a 20p size is what you're going for. For US readers that's like a fat nickel.

Moisturiser - depending on your skin and face size, two blueberries, or 3 if you're a dry, pumpkin head. Think 20p/fat nickel again.

Night cream - a blueberry? No. Two, at least. The original article says it will 'end up all over your pillow if you don't leave it for 5 minutes before turning in'. Well, dear reader, this we know to be nonsense because we all cleanse as soon as we get home in the early evening and sleep on silk pillowcases don't we? :)

SPF - this category was my reason for writing this post. Mainly because the advice of a grape is not only wrong, it's dangerous. Whilst you could ostensibly say that a grape would suffice for the face and neck, the recommendation of a heaped teaspoon for the face and neck is what is recommended by skin cancer specialists. For your body, it's a tablespoon per limb. A tablespoon. One for each leg and arm, one for your trunk, one for your back and if you're wearing skimpy swimwear/nude you need to add one lotion allowance for your bottom, hips thighs etc. If you follow the 'grape' advice I promise you are setting yourself up for a big fat burn.

While I don't generally worry about hair products - each to their own etc.. I do also disagree with the recommendations for both shampoo and the 'how to use' conditioner. 
Shampoo cleanses not only your hair, but your scalp. Conditioner not only acts as a moisturiser for your hair, it redresses the balance of your scalp. To only use shampoo on your roots/scalp and conditioner on your ends leaves the hair unbalanced, like doing laundry and using washing powder without fabric softener - think static. Just wrong. And no, I'm not a hairdresser. I know. I have worked with some of the best in the industry during my time at Aveda and through the years. That being said, they argue amongst themselves about this as well, so you do what you like. As long as you, you know, wash. 








62 comments:

  1. hI Caroline,

    ive started following your routine cheat sheet, and use the first aidy daily facial radiance pads twice a day. however i've noticed that my skin is looking a bit red and inflamed. is it possible that my skin is too sensitive for 2x daily chemical exfoliation? is it okay if i just use it once at day? or is there an even more gentle exfoliating toner you coudl suggest?
    thank you for your blog, it is my favorite

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Your skin has told already you that you use the pads too frequently. I don't think you need an expert to realize that. Use them every other day. If your skin still looks red, you can even use them less frequently and the world won't end. If your skin looks fine, you can go back to using them once a day.

      Delete
    2. In case Caroline doesn't see this: she has mentioned before in this blog that if acid toner twice a day is too much for your sensitive skin, once a day will work too. I use Pixi Glow in the morning only and my skin is happy and exfoliated. Hope this helps!

      Delete
    3. What everyone else said. If something is making your skin, red and inflamed your skin is telling you to stop doing it! Leave the acid tone alone until the redness and inflammation is gone, then reintroduce it slowly - maybe once a day, every other day to start with a view to building up to once a day if the irritation doesn't come back. If it does come back, ditch what you're using and try something milder.

      Caroline's advice is only a guide, you've got to listen to what your skin is telling you. (If I acids toned twice a day, my skin would swear at me so badly! Once day works, but only with the right product. The wrong one causes grumbling!).

      Delete
    4. thanks everyone! i will try once a day, in the evenings, and take from there.

      Delete
  2. Thank you, thank you, million thank you for this post!!! Specially for cleanser! When I use Clinique TTDO Balm( it's new to me), I was wondering how much is enough. I don't want to use too little resulting not cleanse well neither too much to waste it. Now I know the bottom line. Thank you so much!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Great read, I don't think I'm putting on enough moisturiser, even with my pea head. And Caroline, do you still use Hydraluron?

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thank you!!!!!! I've wanted this post for such a long time :D Happy Easter xxxxxx

    ReplyDelete
  5. Thank you so much, Caroline! I started to follow your blog and IG only a month ago..... And my fave is already looking much better... Well, my skin, at least .... I have one question, can I use the Liquid Gold in the summer? Txs again!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Happy Easter Caroline do u still use a heap teaspoon of spf b for u apply your make up using zelens at mo I use a bit more than my moistuiser but have used cane and Austin and that's really runny how much of that do I use many thanks xxx

    ReplyDelete
  7. haha I read that stylist post and out of everything, the pea sized serum.. Well I tried, and it covered pretty much one cheek. *shrugs I have a big face* so proceeded to two more "pea size" lol

    ReplyDelete
  8. Hello Caroline, now that I know how much product to use, would you mind telling me how long should I wait in between applying them ?!
    I always hear that you shouldn't slap all the products on your face one after the other but, how do I know how long to wait ?
    Thanks in advance.

    ReplyDelete
  9. when i saw that tweet i was so close to tweeting them back saying "If you think that amount of cleanser's gonna take my makeup off and clean my face, you got another think comin!" Glad you picked up on it haha. thanks Caroline! x

    ReplyDelete
  10. thank you so much for sharing! as always: this was very helpful!

    ReplyDelete
  11. PREACH. 'A pea' made me eye roll dramatically.
    You're the best, as always.
    Jess x

    ReplyDelete
  12. Caroline,
    You r simply sweet:*
    L

    ReplyDelete
  13. Pinterest is a great way of entertaining yourself with what some people think is an important recommendation. Thank for clearing up, especially regarding the sunscreen.
    LindaLibraLoca: Beauty, Baby and Backpacking

    ReplyDelete
  14. Thanks Caroline, so interesting as always.

    On Acid toning and Use both sides: I always feel like I am 'taking it off' when I use the second side, which is less moist - is this the case? So I avoid using both sides and only use the one I water... am I really wrong then?

    Sunscreen: gosh! that seems a lot for face and neck... :( *figures out she has been doing it all wrong*

    Eye cream: eye creams make my eyes itch and dry - is this normal Caroline?

    ReplyDelete
  15. Thank you Caroline and Happy Easter to you! Can you recommend an SPF for the face? I struggle with them. usually looking like a Geisha :-)).

    ReplyDelete
  16. I have easily gone through a bottle of SPF in a week when on holiday in warmer climes. I think if I attempted to only use a grape I'd be redder than a strawberry after an hour in the sun.

    I tried the 'left to right, down and up' method when I was using my toner last night after reading your Biologique review, and I felt like I have been doing it wrong the whole time!

    I know this sounds like it should just be a simple thing that everyone knows, but please could you do videos about how exactly to use flannels/cotton wool when cleaning your face and applying product? Making myself wrinkly from dragging my face here, there and everywhere is a tiny worry of mine.

    ReplyDelete
  17. I don't doubt you cheat sheet but if you are using 2 blueberries of moisturiser how long does it take you to finish it? One week? Love all your reviews!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. God no! My moisturisers last longer than anything.

      Delete
  18. Christ on a bike a hazelnut size for cleanser and apea for serum they need to be sent for rehabilitation all I can say is not today Satan not today

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This made my day. Maybe my week. Genius. ~Ashley

      Delete
  19. A pea of serum would do absolutely nothing for me!

    On the silk pillow side of things, I'm on the market for one- do you have any recommendations? Xx

    Olivia - www.cravemorebeauty.blogspot.co.uk

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I would also like to know more about silk pillows xx

      Delete
    2. Just a 100 % silk pillow case is fine. You can go for some specific brand, but unbranded one is just alright. Obviously buy it form a trusted source.

      Delete
    3. Hi , Olivia...........Caroline mentioned a silk pillowcase by GingerLily which I left non subtle hints for to the hubby as a birthday pressie and its lovely. Its not pure white but doesn't look out of place in our all white bedroom and comes in a nice gift box. Well worth purchasing and is under £50.......she has also mentioned an alternative one available from Space NK. Go on...........treat yourself ! xx

      Delete
    4. Dunelm Mill also do a nice one for £29.99 but you have to hunt for it. I checked stock availability online for my local store and knew they had 10 in there somewhere but the assistants knew nothing about them. They went to search in the stockroom and found them in an unopened box !!!!

      Delete
  20. Hi Caroline, I have read in several places that it's 6 teaspoons per body application, not tablespoons, can you clarify?

    ReplyDelete
  21. One Canadian company famous for its delicate face cleanser came up with a line of sunscreens. On the box it said to use the sunscreen twice a day if sunbathing.... I hope they changed that.

    ReplyDelete
  22. This is such a timely post! I have been noticing that Hydraluron has been pilling when I have been using it lately. I can't figure out why? My moisturizers are the from the pomegranate line from the Body Shop. What would be the correct amount to dispense for a medium sized face? Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
  23. I'm so glad you posted this, I was wondering if I was going too heavy with both my serums and moisturisers but it appears I am bang on track!

    ReplyDelete
  24. Thank you Lady H. Great article. Always wondered if I was using the right amount of product and getting the correct results because of it. XX

    ReplyDelete
  25. Thank you. Turns out I'm all good except for the sun cream. Need more of that!

    As you've mentioned you were looking for blog ideas, I'd like too see you look at the big beasts of mainstream skincare - L'Oreal, Olay, No 7, Garnier. All the ones I see lurking on mine and my friend"s dressing tables as we buy our stuff along with the weekly shop. Thanks as always.

    ReplyDelete
  26. Hi Caroline,

    Please can you do a cheat sheet on retinol and what strength to use at what age and product recommendations for those strengths because i really need some advice

    Thank you! xx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I would love to see this too!

      Delete
    2. Yes please! I want to start using retinol (got my eye on Luna), but I'm not sure about the how, when and why especially how it sits in the routine with other with other products.
      Please Caroline :) XX

      Delete
  27. Probably a stupid question ( tho there are no stupid questions as a wise person once told) - you mentioned early evening cleanse after we get home. What i am struggling with is: should the early cleanse be: take off your make-up, first cleanse, second cleanse(if needed) and then...? Should I already do my full evening routine of something in between? ( I usually take off my make-up, if i have any on, and do the whole cleansing-toning etc etc routine like an hour or so before bed. WRONG, i know ..)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey Hanna, I remember reading Caroline's answer to a similar question before, I think it was something like "You are not just washing your face and leaving it like that?!?!?!?!" *eyebrow*. I am paraphrasing but you get the idea haha. I guess no matter how gentle, cleansing inevitably alters the balance of your skin, so you will want to help restore its natural pH by toning and then treating/hydrating once your skin is clean, no point in waiting. She also said that you can do a second layer of moisture right before going to bed if you feel like your skin has already fully absorbed the first round. Hope that helps!

      Delete
    2. Very helpful! I always want to wash my face right when I get home from work, but I'm not sure if it's too early for me "bedtime routine". I guess it does make sense to let everything absorb with plenty of time before I go to bed so all my expensive products don't all end up on my pillow!

      Delete
  28. Only 2 raspberries for conditioner? Are they messing!! Haha.

    ReplyDelete
  29. Pea sized dollop for serum? Pfft. I use two pumps. I have a massive face*shrugs nochalantly*.

    ReplyDelete
  30. That's interesting for the cleanser, I would say I'm using much less but that's perhaps because I'm still not used to how much I'm spending on cleansers so want them to last forever haha!

    www.missviennamarie.com

    ReplyDelete
  31. Great cheat sheet! Thanks and happy Easter, Caroline!

    ReplyDelete
  32. A little bit drunkie and haven't commented before but THANK YOU CAROLINE! you go girl!! When will you be doing skincare consultations again? Have a nice week! - Jessica

    ReplyDelete
  33. Now if you could make your own fruit-themed poster.
    Yeah... if you did, then I'd think you were great.
    ;)

    ReplyDelete
  34. How much Luna should we be using? A whole dropper full seems excessive. I find five drops is plenty to cover my face. There is no info on either Sunday Riley's website or Sephora's. What are your thoughts, Lady Hirons?

    ReplyDelete
  35. If I used that little conditioner I would look like crystal tipps. V dry hair, I use a palmful of conditioner, 7 pumps of hair oil and a strawberry size of styling cream. Do I get an award for worlds driest hair?!

    ReplyDelete
  36. Caroline, I didn't know I needed this cheat sheet until you published it. I do read instructions but I tend to wing it on serums/treatments, applying in thin layers & waiting a bit in between to assess if my skin can absorb more. After that I drench my skin in moisturizer & night cream. I realize now that I've been trying to avoid that awful tacky feeling that some treatments leave & I should use more of those and maybe less moisturizer (I have to cut back somewhere otherwise I'll feel suffocated haha). Thank you for writing about this, its one of those things that appear simple but is actually quite baffling.

    On the haircare front I use an ungodly amount of conditioner. Like, I run through 2-3 bottles of conditioner for every bottle of shampoo. My hair is naturally frizzy and has been color-processed for many years so I feel like the full tilt boogie conditioning is a way of pampering to make up for what I've put my hair through. I don't know if thats the right way to go about it but my hair has held up pretty well. And if I remember correctly, on your post about the kukui shampoo/conditioner you use way more conditioner than shampoo too?

    P.S. I've been meaning to say - I love how your commentariat has evolved to where people are talking to each other and trying to help. There's a real feeling of community. Joy

    ReplyDelete
  37. I'm curious as to know why a cotton ball is bad for toning? It takes in the product and removes any residual skin or dirt off my face while leaving a good amount of toner on my skin. My thing about using a cotton round is that they are so bloody massive and absorbent, and toners/ pads aren't really that cheap (they've reached $5 what!!!), and I just find it takes in too much of my toner and I'm just throwing it in the trash! Will make the sacrifice if I must, but I would like to know!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, why no cotton wool balls please Mrs Hirons?!

      Delete
  38. This was surprisingly timely for me, considering I learned my lesson just yesterday by using too little sunscreen while out doing yard work. I'd thought that because it was early April a little dab on my face (yes, about the size of a grape) would be enough, but I woke up after a nap with a red face. It would have been disaster in the summertime.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I've read somewhere, that sun in the spring can be even more damaging than in the summer. It's something to do with how high the sun is in the sky as compared to summer (much higher) and with the angle of the sunbeams reaching the surface of the earth. hm.. I don't know if that is true or totally made up, but better be safe than sorry.

      Delete
  39. Need advice about oil. I bought the ole henriksen youth activating oil as recommended by Caroline. I usually put on spot treatment after moisturiser then oil. The packaging says before moisturiser. Bit confused and I only use it at night. Should I be wearing oil during the day.
    Any advice please.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. you can use that oil during the day, it really depends on what your skin needs on that particular morning. If you're parched go for it! I personally find the ole oil to not fully absorb, so I only wear it at night (only because I wear powder foundation). My favourite combo is using the oil at night and truth serum during the day, with a moisturizer on top!

      Delete
  40. Can someone explain the issues with essential oils? Struggling to get an understandable answer about them elsewhere, what are the issues and is it all essential oils?
    Thanks!
    Skin love :)

    ReplyDelete
  41. Hmm, things are going to get expensive, especially since I've been going the Biologique Recherche route.
    So, what I do to make the $37 1.7 fluid oz serum spread over my face is a spray of Avene water.

    ReplyDelete
  42. Love the post, thanks for share. Thank for clearing up, especially regarding the sunscreen. x

    missy dress

    ReplyDelete
  43. Love this, so helpful!
    I dont thin I ever use enough sunscreen. Whoops! x

    ReplyDelete
  44. Other than the sunscreen, if I were to use as much as you said, it would slide right off of my face.

    ReplyDelete

Follow this blog with bloglovin

Follow on Bloglovin
Related Posts with Thumbnails